Tri-X in HC-110

Joined: 28 Jun 2005 Posts: 11

I developed my first film at home just a few days ago! And it worked ok... :-)

Film is 35mm Tri-X 400 rated at ISO 320. I'm using the European Concentrate version of HC-110, and developing in 1+30.5 [equivalent to 1+100 of syrup, if my maths is right] at 29C for 7 mins, with agitation only for the first 10 seconds.

Then I have a tap water stop bath for 1.5 minutes with constant agitation. Then I fix with Ilford Rapid Fixer diluted 1+4 for 3 mins, with agitation for 5 sec every 30 sec. Finally, wash it under a running tap for 10 minutes, and add a couple of drops of Fairy liquid to the final rinse. Gave the film a quick 'finger squeegee' and left it hanging over the bath for a couple of hours.

It is very hot here in London at the moment... it's 32C and that's at 3:30am. Had to use ice to get the chemicals to the right temperature.

The scratches are my fault for handling the negatives clumsily. However I appear to have picked up some water stains.

Can anyone offer any comments, hints, tips, or tweaks to my process. Can't wait to do it again tomorrow night!

Posted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 10:23 pm

Nice job for the first try! Try souping Tri-X in Diafine, its the only developer I soup Tri-X in anymore. Watch the dust as I can see some also try using Photoflo to help reduce water spots. Run the shower very hot just before you develop, let the steam clear and this will hold the dust down long enough for the film to dry.

Joined: 09 Sep 2006 Posts: 114 Location: Boston, MA

Rewash your negs in a mild solution of distilled water and photoflo. U can use the shower suggestion to keep the dust off your negs. Tri-x works best with a siver developer. HC-110 is a non-silver developer and works best with either slow film ( ISO 50-125) or Delta 400-1600-3200. The dilution B works best for me when I need or have a high contrast shot that I want to keep the grain down on and not completely loose my highlights. You may want to try Kodak D-76. Its all I use now and always give me the results I am looking for. Its not what you use but how you use it and how you keep track of your process. Keep a log of your dev. times and the contast, density, grain of your images...use the same speed film for your tests and find what works best for you. the times listed on the box and "recomended" not scripture. experiment with more or less time until you find what you want.... I tap water stop bath will work but may not give you sufficient and fast enough neutralization of the developer...use stop bath or dilute some white vinegar and use that...very dilute...its acetic acid..the same as what you buy for stop bath.

Good Luck