Softening flowing water in daytime

Joined: 25 Oct 2004 Posts: 346 Location: Okinawa, Japan

Okay, I tried for the first time today to soften or blur running water today at a dam on a small river. It was near sunset, so lowish light conditions compared to noon, but still plenty of light left. I used the highest F# I could, but it still WAY blew out the sky, white water, and anything else kind of light. Do you have to have a special kind of filter for this kind of a shot during the day or what. If I remember right it was F32 on a D70 just doing 1/3 second shutter speed. Any faster to not overexpose seemed to not give me the water effect that I was looking for.

Please explain to me what I can do to better shoot this type of scene. The pictures didn't come out too bad, but they weren't what I was hoping for.
Thanks,
Aaron

Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 11:40 pm

Post an example.

Joined: 25 Oct 2004 Posts: 346 Location: Okinawa, Japan

You said "an example", but I'm going to give you three. Could it be the ISO? Looking back on it now, I had it set to 200. I always forget how to use the ISO to my advantage, and since I took it off auto ISO to force myself to learn how to use it better, it just keeps kickin' me in the jimmy when I forget it.

First one is 1/4 sec F29. ISO 200

Next one is 1/2 sec F32 ISO 200

Okay, this dam is privately owned and the guy was locking the gate for the day, but was nice enough to let me in to snap a few pics. When I wasn't getting what I was looking for I tried a bunch of different settings, and none of them were really working too well. I'm trying, but this is frustrating. Even still, I'm happy with how well they came out even with the major hot spots. Like I said, this was my first time trying this, and I think this is a pretty cool little spot. Thanks for the help.

Joined: 25 Oct 2004 Posts: 346 Location: Okinawa, Japan

Last one is 1/13 sec F22 ISO 200

Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2004 4:27 am

You need to use the lowest ISO possible. I thought that was 200 in the D70 so no problems there.

It's simply too bright an area to get the effect you are trying for. You did right stopping down the lens as far as you can, but it still isn't giving you the 1 second + exposures you need for a really nice effect.

When people are trying to shoot relatively long exposures in a bright scene they use what is called a Neutral Density filter. This is what you need. A neutral density will basically darken the entire scene by several stops, allowing you to use the same shutter speeds as you have been, without getting the blow outs.

If you were to stack neutral density's, or to do the same thing when its not so bright, you would get away with using even longer shutter speeds for an even nicer "milky water" effect.

Good job on your first attempt though!

Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2004 10:04 am

I'd look at a .6 ND filter which would give you 2 stops.

Joined: 25 Oct 2004 Posts: 346 Location: Okinawa, Japan

Okay, cool. That makes me feel better about my attempts. What's an ND filter run for a decent, but not top of the line one. I guess I could just look around on the internet for prices, but what do you guys recommend?

Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2004 1:35 pm

Most go for around $60 but you can get the Cokin one for around $20. Just be aware that the Cokin one is not a neutral gray and will cause a slight color shift that is easily fixed in PS.

Joined: 25 Oct 2004 Posts: 346 Location: Okinawa, Japan

Cool thanks.

Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2005 8:49 am

Another filter you may want to use and should own is a polarizer. The polarizer will knock the shutter speed down a bit and you get the added benefit of controlling the reflective light which may or may not be important when shooting water, depends on what you are trying to get. It may also help out with the sky a bit. You may also try a combo of polarizer and a soft graduated ND filter. The graduated ND filter you can position so it just stops down the sky and the polarizer will stop down the whole scene. This might bring the whole shot into balance and get you a slow enough shutter speed to blur the water.

Joined: 29 Sep 2004 Posts: 183 Location: Toledo Ohio, USA

I actually use both an ND filter stacked with a polarizer a lot of the time when doing waterfalls. Polarizer is good for cutting the glare and reflections from the water down and also enhancing the colors. It also acts as an ND filter and cuts the light by about 1 to 2 stops.
The ND is for stopping down the light only. I usually set the mode to apereture priority and let the camera pick the shutter speed. I also like to spot meter on the falls since you will most likely blow the highlghts if you dont. It also helps to use a tripod for the longer shutter speeds and then to bracket the shots so you get 3 exposures. You can then digitally blend the darkest and lightest ones together in photoshop to get the water and surrounding vegetation exposed as best you can. Helps to go on a cloudy day to.

Heres a few samples of waterfall shots I took this past year. First one taken very early in the morning and the second one was taken on a rainy cloudy day.

Joined: 29 Sep 2004 Posts: 183 Location: Toledo Ohio, USA

Forgot to give you a link to my photo gallery. I have lots of shots of different waterfalls here. If you have any more questions let me know, glad to help if I can.

http://www.pbase.com/michael_shake